BORDEAUX 2005!

MONUMENTAL VINTAGE!

Retasting all the 2005s a few months before they are bottled confirmed just about everything the pundits had declared last year. It is an extraordinary vintage and one that is different from anything I have tasted in the last twenty-eight years. As a general rule, the wines are very concentrated, extremely high in tannin, and backward, but the fresh acids combined with the massive concentration and higher than normal alcohols make for a distinctive vintage that will probably be one of the longest-lived I have ever tasted. "ROBERT PARKER" THE WINE ADVOCATE.

		$ 799.99    CH MOUTON ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 96 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 95 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: The 2005 Mouton Rothschild will have to take a back seat to the prodigious 2006, but administrator Philippe Dalhuin deserves considerable credit for pushing Mouton to higher quality levels over recent years. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot, the dark purple-hued 2005 exhibits a restrained but promising nose of cedar, tobacco leaf, creme de cassis, and toasty oak. Full-bodied, tannic, and extremely backward, with the vintage’s tell-tale acidity, it appears to be even more closed in the bottle than it was from barrel. It does possess a long finish and multilayered mouthfeel. This is an undeniably outstanding, yet restrained, shy wine for a Mouton Rothschild. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040+. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Dark purple black in color. Complex aromas of mineral, licorice, lead pencil and blackberry follow through to a full body, with ultrafine tannins and a caressing, pretty finish. Has a lovely texture. Shows elegance and refinement. Best after 2012.
		$ 349.99    CH PALMER MARGAUX BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 97 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 95 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: This spectacular offering should continue to improve, and may merit an even higher score after additional aging. Stunningly rich and powerful, the dark purple-tinged 2005 Palmer is a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 7% Petit Verdot. Aromas of incense, burning embers, black currants, plums, licorice, and flowers are followed by a full-bodied Margaux with more weight and power even than its nearby first-growth rival, Chateau Margaux. The abundant acidity and tannins are beautifully coated by the wine’s exceptional fruit extract and overall harmony and richness. It is so concentrated that one is hard pressed to find even a hint of new oak. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2045+. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Dark in color, with intense aromas of crushed berry, toasty oak and hints of raisin, turning to fresh flowers. Full-bodied, with a big, juicy, velvety texture and a long aftertaste of coffee, coconut and berry. This is powerful and muscular for Palmer. Best after 2012.
		$1099.99    CH HAUT BRION PESSAC-LEOGNAN BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 98 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 100 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: Another profound effort from Haut-Brion, the 2005 (a 9,000-case blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc) has bulked up to the point that it is fair to compare it to the great successes of 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996, 1998, and 2000. A dark ruby/purple color is followed by a nuanced, noble bouquet of blue and red fruits interwoven with wet stones, unsmoked cigar tobacco, scorched earth, and spring flowers. The wine is full-bodied, pure, and complex as well as exceptionally elegant with laser-like precision. The tannins are still serious and substantial, and in that sense, this is a completely different style of Haut-Brion than the opulent, silky-textured 1989 and 1990. As I have written before, it comes across as an improved, more concentrated and structured version of the 1995 or 1998. Patience will be required for this stunner. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2040+ WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: This is incredible on the nose, showing coffee cake, blackberry, floral, coffee bean and vanilla bean, with Chinese spices. A very complex, full-bodied red, with seamless, hyperpolished tannins that caress every millimeter of the palate. Lasts for minutes. So beautifully balanced, I'm left speechless. Is it even better than the 1989? Best after 2017.
		$ 44.99    LA TOUR CARNET HAUT MEDOC BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 91 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 90 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: Shrewd consumers should be stocking up on this wine as it is both sensational and realistically priced. Once one of the most appallingly mediocre classified growths of the Medoc, this estate’s resurrection started around 2000, hitting its full stride in 2001, and proprietor Bernard Magrez continues to build on that success. A blend of nearly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the inky/blue/purple 2005 possesses a beautiful nose of graphite, flowers, creme de cassis, incense, and a touch of new barriques. Full-bodied with crisp acidity, sweet tannin, and excellent definition and freshness, this sensational sleeper of the vintage should be at its finest in 8-10 years. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: A pretty wine, with vanilla, currant and berry on the nose and palate. Full-bodied, with toasty oak and currant notes and ripe, polished tannins. Best after 2013.
		$ 239.99    CH COS DESTOURNEL ST.- ESTEPHE BORDEAUX RED 2005 (WINE SPECTATOR TOP 100 #28) ROBERT PARKER RATING: 98 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 98 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: While I am not convinced the 2005 Cos d’Estournel will eclipse the compelling 2003 Cos, it is unquestionably another superb classic from proprietor Michel Reybier and his brilliant winemaker, Jean-Guillaume Prats. Made from an unusually high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (78%) and the balance mostly Merlot with a tiny dollop of Cabernet Franc, this superb effort requires plenty of time in the bottle. It boasts an inky/purple color as well as a glorious perfume of licorice, Asian spices, creme de cassis, blackberries, and toasty oak. This full-bodied St.-Estephe is exceptionally powerful, pure, and dense with a layered mid-palate that builds like a skyscraper. While there are massive tannins, they are remarkably velvety and well-integrated in this big, backstrapping effort that should enjoy an unusually long life. Forget it for 8-10 years, and drink it between 2017-2040. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Black in color, with aromas of orange peel, new leather, currant, berry and Christmas pudding. Full-bodied, with layers of velvety tannins and a long, long finish of fruit and spices. The cashmere texture is all there. 2003 plus 2000 equals 2005. Best after 2015.
		$ 94.99    CH GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE PAUILLAC BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 95 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 93 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: The brilliant 2005 Grand-Puy-Lacoste exhibits classic Pauillac aromas and flavors of creme de cassis along with stony/floral notes. Proprietor Xavier Borie has created a wine that should rival the brilliant 1982, 1990, 1996, and 2000. Full-bodied with sweet tannin and superb length (a 40+ second finish), the purity of this beauty’s black currant fruit is something to behold. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2030. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Has subtle blackberry, licorice and currant on the nose, with hints of mint. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a very pretty texture. Caresses everything. Refined and balanced. A beautiful wine that's hard to keep your hands off now. Best after 2012.
		$ 999.99    CH MARGAUX MARGAUX BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 98 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 100 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: Another celestial effort from Paul Pontallier and Corinne Mentzelopoulus, the 2005 Margaux, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, boasts a dense opaque blue/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of spring flowers, blueberries, black raspberries, creme de cassis, licorice, and, despite its having spent two years in 100% new wood, only a subtle touch of toasty oak. Although full-bodied, the wine seems light on its feet because of the silky tannins as well as the great gravel terroir from which it comes. Beautiful purity, length, and nobility define this modern day classic. Is it better than the 2000, 1996, 1990, or some of the vintages from the decade of the eighties? Who knows, but it is unquestionably one of the all-time great wines made at Chateau Margaux. This estate has produced only exceptional wines over the last three decades. The seamlessness of the 2005 suggests it will perform well early, but it should last for a half century or more. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2050+. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Black in color, delivering extraordinary aromas of blackberry, raisin, spices and fresh mushroom. Full-bodied, with an amazing core of ripe fruit, yet ultrabalanced and finely textured. Touches every taste bud. This incredible young red spent two years in new wood, but you can't tell. It's all glorious fruit. A legendary wine. Best after 2017.
		$ 149.99    CH PICHON BARON PAUILLAC BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 94 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 94 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: As usual, this superb Pauillac possesses an inky/blue/black color in addition to a big, sweet nose of graphite, charcoal, burning embers, black currant liqueur, and toasty vanillin from new oak casks. Full-bodied with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, the 2005 Pichon Baron is more backward than the blockbuster 2003 or prodigious 2000. Nevertheless, it is a superb effort whose power, length, and tannic structure suggest it should be at its peak between 2015-2035. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Offers crushed currant and blackberry on the nose, turning to tar and licorice. Full-bodied, with a solid core of ripe fruit and seamless tannins. Goes on and on. Very, very beautiful. A cross between the 2000 and fabulous 2003. Best after 2013.
		$ 229.99    CH DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU ST.- JULIEN BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 97 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 95 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: The 2005 Ducru Beaucaillou is a 10,000-case blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot (they used to produce 18,000-20,000 cases). It is an exceptionally powerful wine with a dense purple color, superb intensity, and a beautiful, sweet nose of spring flowers, raspberries, blueberries, graphite, and creme de cassis. Full-bodied with fabulous concentration, exceptionally high tannin, good acidity, and massive layers of richness that build incrementally on the palate, this monumental effort is more structured than their outstanding 2003. It may be the finest wine produced at this estate since the 1982 and 1961 Ducrus. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2050. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Aromas of blackberry, currant and toasty oak, with a hint of spice, lead to a full-bodied palate, with plenty of blackberry, chocolate and Indian spices. Balanced, refined and very pretty, with a velvety texture and a long, beautifully textured finish. Best after 2013.
		$ 36.99    CH FERRAND LARTIQUE ST.- EMILION BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 90 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: Thank goodness this estate’s new consultant, Stephane Derenoncourt, has toned down what was often too much new oak. He also appears to have built in more density. The 2005 is a beautifully exuberant, sexy wine displaying copious black cherry, toasty oak, raspberry, and vanillin notes. Pure, rich, medium to full-bodied, and luscious, patience will not be required for this beauty as it can be consumed now and over the next 12-15 years. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Displays aromas of blackberry and dark chocolate. Medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a fruity finish. There's a hint of toasty oak. Best after 2011.
		$ 409.99    CH PAVIE ST.- EMILION BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 98 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 100 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: Now that the 2005 Pavie is in the bottle, I would place it, qualitatively, a notch below the prodigious 2000, and a few notches above the blockbuster 2003. There are 7,000 cases of this 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Disregarding the blatant jealousy of his success as well as his “outsider” status, proprietor Gerard Perse has pushed the envelope of quality, fashioning first-growth quality wines from one of Bordeaux’s finest terroirs. In St.-Emilion, only Ausone can be considered to have greater potential in terms of micro-climate and terroir. Pavie’s 2005 exhibits a thick-looking purple color to the rim as well as an exquisite perfume of blueberry and blackberry liqueur, unsmoked cigar tobacco, crushed rocks, damp earth, and hints of truffles and incense. The vineyard’s limestone soils have provided massive concentration, a laser-like precision, fresh, zesty acidity, and massive tannin. Despite the wine’s enormous concentration and intensity, there is a lightness to its style. As Perse has made clear, he is trying to produce modern day versions of such great vintages as 1921, 1929, 1945, and 1947, wines that lasted 50 or more years. I do not understand why Perse receives so much criticism. In the blind tastings of each new vintage conducted by the Grand Jury European, Pavie usually wins against 100 or so other great Bordeaux. As they say, the truth is irrefutable - this is one of the world’s most outstanding wines, and the 2005 Pavie should take its place among the greatest achievements of Bordeaux in the last 50 years. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2060. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: I love the purity of fruit in this wine, with perfectly ripe blackberry, blueberry and raspberry on the nose. Complex and full-bodied, with hints of new oak and wonderfully polished tannins that caress the palate. Long, long finish. This is not the blockbuster it was from barrel, but rather a complete, balanced and gorgeous red. Best after 2015.
		$ 449.99    CH LEOVILLE LAS CASES ST.- JULIEN BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 98 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 100 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: Another titanic effort from the Delon family, the 2005 Leoville Las Cases is probably the greatest wine made at this estate since Jean-Hubert Delon’s father produced the 1986 and 1996. Only 37% of the production made it into the 2005, a blend of primarily Cabernet Sauvignon with less than 13% Merlot and Cabernet Franc. An inky/ruby/purple color is accompanied by reticent aromatics that, with considerable coaxing, offer up subtle notes of toasty vanillin intermixed with lead pencil shavings, wet rocks, and enormously ripe, intense black cherry and creme de cassis. The wine hits the palate with a full-bodied, layered mouthfeel as well as enormous extract, concentration, and purity. This ageless, monumental claret requires a minimum of 15-20 years to approach maturity, and should last for a half century. It is about as classic a Leoville Las Cases as one will find. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2060. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: This is breathtaking. Black in color, with incredible aromas of crushed blackberry, mineral, licorice and lead pencil. Full-bodied, with a mind-blowing texture of seamless tannins that coat every millimeter of the palate. Goes on and on, with licorice, currant and flowers. Time will tell if it's better than the 2000. Best after 2017.
		$ 78.99    CH BRANE CANTENAC MARGAUX BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 94 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 92 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: This is the finest Brane-Cantenac I have tasted in over thirty years. Unusually perfumed and already approachable (atypical for most 2005 Medocs), it reveals a deep plum/purple color as well as a stunningly flamboyant bouquet of smoked herbs, licorice, camphor, black cherries, currants, and notions of plums and blackberries. Elegant with silky tannin and medium body, it is clearly a classic statement on the Margaux appellation. While not a powerhouse, it is beautifully concentrated, stunningly balanced, and surprisingly forward. It could be drunk now after several hours of decanting, but it should age easily for 20+ years. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Shows mineral and blackberry aromas, with hints of licorice. Full-bodied, with soft, silky tannins and a long, smoky, earthy, meaty and fruity aftertaste. Long and stylish. Very refined and beautiful. Best after 2012.
		$ 70.99    CH BEYCHEVELLE ST.- JULIEN BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 90 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 89 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: While this is a strong effort from a property that too often does not live up to its pedigree, I had hoped the 2005 Beychevelle would merit an even higher score. A deep ruby/purple hue is accompanied by a sweet perfume of roasted herbs, black cherries, and even blacker fruits. The wine is medium to full-bodied with sweet tannin, good acidity, and a fruitcake-like spiciness and earthiness. Pure and long with a tannic clout that is neither intrusive nor excessive, this elegant, powerful effort should be at its finest between 2017-2030. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Has pretty blackberry, licorice and spices on the nose. Full-bodied, with medium tannins and a minerally, fruity, almost spicy finish. Balanced and refined. Best after 2012.
		$1199.99    CH LAFITE ROTHCHILD PAUILLAC BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 96 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 98 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: While the 2005 is another brilliantly classic Lafite Rothschild, for my taste, it comes in slightly behind their extraordinarily opulent 2003 as well as the dramatically powerful 2000. A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Merlot, the 2005 boasts a dark ruby/purple color in addition to that exceptional Lafite perfume of graphite, spring flowers, crushed rocks, and sweet black cherry and black currant fruit that exudes class and nobility. The wine is medium-bodied with extremely high levels of tannin in addition to sensational purity, length, and overall harmony. However, it is exceptionally backward, and even more tannic than either the 1995 or 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2050+ WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Delivers blackberry, dried porcini, tobacco and licorice aromas. Full-bodied, with layers of velvety tannins and loads of dark chocolate, cigar box, currant, berry and mineral. The finish is long, with a coffee, almost meaty, aftertaste. Very beautiful and balanced. Best after 2013.
		$ 99.99    CH LASCOMBES MARGAUX BORDEAUX RED 2005 ROBERT PARKER RATING: 95 WINE SPECTATOR RATING: 93 ROBERT PARKER REVIEW: A gorgeous example of Lascombes, the 2005, a blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot, continues the remarkable turn-around in quality that began five years ago. A stunningly opulent wine with a dense purple color, the 2005 possesses a beautiful perfume of spring flowers, blueberries, blackberries, creosote, and graphite, full body, silky but noticeable tannins, a layered mouthfeel, and a stunning, 45+-second finish. This is a brilliant, modern-styled Margaux that should age for 30-35 years. WINE SPECTATOR REVIEW: Dark in color, with an impressive nose of licorice, toasty oak, chocolate and blackberry. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long, caressing finish. Very pretty and structured. Best after 2012.