2020 Zilliken Saarburger Riesling Kabinett Mosel 750ml
Winery Notes- Produced with early harvested fruit from estate vines in the town of Saarburg, this village-level Riesling Kabinett exhibits the ethereal delicacy that is a hallmark of the Zilliken estate.
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VINOUS REVIEW: The 2020 Riesling Saarburger Kabinett is sourced from Saarburger Rausch – indeed, all of her family’s holdings in Saarburg, noted Dorothee Zilliken, are within the Rausch Einzellage as expanded during the first decade of the new century – and represents, after “Butterfly,” the largest volume of any bottling in the present Zilliken collection. And this year, it incorporates some fruit from sites than have often supported Grosses Gewächs. Ripe pear, tinged with star anise, is mingled with lime, grapefruit and white currant on the nose and the buoyant but glossy palate, marking a bottling more refreshing than most of the other Zilliken 2020s. A hint of almond paste adds richness. Tart, tingling citricity and stimulatingly piquant nips of pear seed accompany the long, vibrant finish. As a valuable demonstration of how little one can conclude from a Riesling’s analysis: Acidity here is only 7.9 grams and there are 50 grams of residual sugar, yet the effect is especially lively and the sense of sweetness seemingly ideally supportive and discreet. Partly, this phenomenon reflects low pH, which in turn rests on low extract, meaning little potassium. But it also suggests a strong preponderance of tartaric as opposed to malic acid.
JOHN GILMAN REVIEW: The 2020 Saarburg Riesling Kabinett from Dorothee Zilliken is simply lovely from the outset, offering up the filigreed delicacy that only Kabinett can deliver. The refined aromatic constellation revels in scents of apple, lime blossoms, a hint of white cherry, wild yeasts, bee pollen, a gentle hint of cress and a complex base of slate. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied, light on its feet and beautifully complex, with bright acids, excellent focus and balance and a long, well water finish. The technical details of this lovely Kabinett are 7.5 percent octane, 7.9 grams of acidity and 50.5 grams of sugar. Such ethereal beauty! (Drink between 2022-2060)
JAMES SUCKLING REVIEW: This takes off vertically from the launch pad and heads straight for outer space! So much mint and melon freshness, then comes a touch of bitter orange at the long, mouthwatering finish. Drink or hold.
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